Does CBD-Infused Skin Care Actually Do Anything For Your Skin?

Walk into Sephora or a spa, and you are likely to find beauty products containing cannabidiol, better known as CBD. These CBD-infused products claim to do everything from combat signs of aging to promote deep relaxation.

For example, Saint Jane Beauty claims that its calming serum contains “full-spectrum CBD” and is a “powerful treatment” with anti-aging benefits to “visibly calm redness, clear blemishes and deeply restore.” Meanwhile, Prim Botanicals’ Full Body High CBD relaxing body lotion claims to create “a more deeply relaxed you.”

And consumers aren’t just seeking out at-home CBD beauty treatments. Stacey Spooner, corporate manager of spa and fitness at Sandals Resorts, says, “Globally, there’s been an increase in the demand for spa treatments incorporating CBD as an ingredient.” She explained that “the treatments have been popular with guests looking to target muscle soreness as well as melt away tension, tightness and fatigue.”

When HuffPost last visited this topic in 2020, there was no clear research that proved these products are worth your money. But in the four years since, has anything changed? Here’s what we know now.

There are different types of CBD for different purposes

CBD can be derived from hemp or cannabis. Hemp and cannabis are the same species of plant, but hemp contains a lower concentration of THC, the component in cannabis that gets you high. Most commercially made beauty products are made from CBD derived from hemp.

Lotions, gels and other products made with CBD derived from cannabis do exist. However, these are typically used for therapeutic purposes, or they have been legalized for adult use in certain states, which means they can be purchased at a licensed dispensary or an independent grower. Plenty of people use these products, but they’re not the types of beauty products sold at stores like Sephora, which we are focusing on here.

Are beauty products containing CBD legal?

In 2018, the Federal Drug Administration removed hemp from the list of controlled substances. This differentiated the way hemp and cannabis are treated under federal law. Now, hemp products, including the hemp-derived CBD used in most commercially available beauty products, can be used legally in all 50 states. However, some states, including Maryland, West Virginia and Indiana, have imposed restrictions on the sale of products containing hemp-derived CBD.

Cannabis and cannabis-derived CBD, including in beauty products, is still illegal under federal law. While cannabis-derived CBD is legal in many states, regulations vary widely and use is often restricted to those with a prescription. Until the legal landscape changes, you are unlikely to find beauty products containing cannabis-derived CBD sold at stores like Sephora or your local drugstore.

Moreover, it’s illegal for a beauty product infused with CBD to make medical claims. If a cosmetic product containing CBD makes any claims about treating or preventing disease, the FDA requires that the manufacturer seek approval as a drug. This is true even if the product is also a beauty product that affects your appearance.

To date, the FDA has only approved one cannabis-derived drug and three synthetic cannabis-derived drugs, none of which are beauty products. These drugs are only approved to treat certain types of seizures and complications from AIDS. All require a prescription from a licensed health care provider. Therefore, CBD-infused beauty products cannot legally make any health-related claims. If you see any beauty products with CBD claiming to have health benefits, you should be skeptical.

Will beauty products with CBD get you high?

CBD is an active ingredient in cannabis, but it doesn’t cause a high if it’s used by itself. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, a dermatologist, author, researcher and CEO of SkinTypeSolutions.com, topical products containing CBD “should not have any effects on mood or relaxation.” That’s because THC, another active ingredient in cannabis, “can cross the blood-brain barrier and have effects on mood while CBD cannot.” So there goes the claim that CBD in any of these beauty products can actively relax you.

Is there any evidence that the CBD in beauty products can improve your skin?

Currently, there are “no proven benefits” to using skin care products with CBD, Baumann says, aside from the other non-CBD ingredients that may be in the products. Because there aren’t yet any studies showing topical products containing CBD are effective, she says that any claimed benefits are “just marketing hype.” As a result, Baumann does not recommend beauty products containing CBD to her patients.

Why the confusion?

There are three main reasons CBD-infused beauty products may have grown in popularity despite a lack of evidence showing any benefits.

First, early studies are showing the potential of CBD-infused beauty products. Despite the lack of any current evidence showing any benefits to using CBD-infused beauty products, “there are multiple clinical studies showing that CBD oil has the potential to improve various skin conditions,” said Dr. Alexandra Bowles, a dermatologist at Mona Dermatology.

Dr. Adam Friedman, a dermatologist and professor and chair of the Department of Dermatology at the George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Sciences, is conducting one of those studies. He says there is “emerging evidence” that “CBD has potential to manage a broad range of skin conditions and help maintain a healthy skin barrier and, therefore, youthful appearing skin.” Additionally, CBD may protect against DNA damage from ultraviolet radiation, which can damage skin in a number of ways, he says.

Friedman said this “anecdotal and early clinical trial evidence” shows that there may be benefits to using CBD beauty products. However, despite the potential of CBD beauty products, Friedman cautions that so far, studies have only been conducted on “cells and animals” rather than on people. That means it’s still too soon to tell if those benefits will cross over to humans. “More clinical research is necessary to truly decipher how effective CBD skin products are,” and what skin conditions they can treat, Bowles said.

Second, there may be confusion about CBD’s effectiveness because CBD is “known for its anti-inflammatory effects, which can help reduce redness and irritation,” Bowles explained. Additionally, CBD is “rich in antioxidants, which can help combat free radicals and reduce the signs of aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines,” she said. However, Baumann explained that to be effective in beauty products, CBD would have to be absorbed into the skin. Currently, “no one has yet been able to prove it can get into the skin when applied topically,” she explained. One study found that CBD in creams and gels was absorbed through artificial skin cells when certain formulations were used. However, more research is needed to see if these results can be replicated with human skin.

A third point of confusion may be because CBD-infused beauty products are often combined with other ingredients with proven benefits. These benefits may incorrectly be attributed to CBD. For example, “CBD-infused beauty products often contain hemp seed oil, which is known for its moisturizing properties that can help hydrate the skin without clogging pores,” Bowles said. Some consumers may incorrectly attribute the benefits they see after using products that contain CBD and hemp seed oil to the wrong ingredients. Additionally, beauty products that combine CBD with products known to promote relaxation might be effective, Baumann explained. For example, CBD products combined with lavender have “been shown to relax you through olfactory means,” she said. However, it’s the smell of the lavender rather than the CBD that is promoting relaxation.

The same is true of a host of other ingredients with proven results that may be combined with CBD. If a CBD-infused beauty product has “calming and soothing effects on the skin,” you “may feel more relaxed and at ease” and be happier with your skin’s appearance, Bowles said. However, there isn’t any evidence that any benefits can be attributed to CBD.

Can using beauty products with CBD be harmful?

Although there isn’t any evidence yet that beauty products containing CBD are helpful, they probably won’t hurt you. “In general, these products are very safe,” Baumann said. She explained that some people may have an allergic reaction to products containing CBD, but it’s unlikely.

However, Bowles cautioned that “the purity and quality of CBD products can vary widely. Some products may contain contaminants, such as pesticides, heavy metals, or residual solvents, which can cause adverse reactions.”

She added that “with any product, the overuse of any topical product can lead to issues like clogged pores or imbalanced skin, so it is essential to follow the product’s usage instructions and not apply excessive amounts.” She added that “combining multiple topical CBD products may increase the risk of skin irritation or sensitivity, especially if the products contain other active ingredients like retinoids, acids, or essential oils.”

Although CBD-infused products are generally safe, Baumann cautioned against using these products all over your body, on small children, or if you are pregnant. That’s because of the risk of “increased systemic absorption” and the lack of data showing how much CBD is safe, she explained.

Because CBD-infused beauty products are unlikely to be harmful, Bowles said they can be a good “adjunctive treatment” for her patients who want to use them and don’t experience any side effects.

If you decide to incorporate CBD products into your beauty routine, Bowles recommends that you consult your dermatologist first, just as you should before adding any new product to your skin care regimen.