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Photography via ImaxTree
From surrealist magic at Schiaparelli to Thebe Magugu’s whimsical prints, these are the looks from Fashion Month our editors are still dreaming about.
Last season, designers scrambled to figure out how to unveil their collections. But now many seem comfortable telling their stories in new ways. Two brilliant examples from the most recent Fashion Month: Saul Nash’s video with a surprising twist, and a gorgeous film by Roksanda that proves all you need is a few famous friends and three iPhones to get the message across beautifully. One thing is certain: creativity lives on in this new, mostly digital, reality.
Here, FASHION editors round up the dreamiest looks from the Fall/Winter 2021 collections from New York, London, Paris, Milan and beyond.
Miu Miu
Miu Miu’s Fall 21 formula is a simple one: skiwear over silk, plus a pair of sturdy boots for trudging through deep snow. But the actual look is anything but dull. The quilted outerwear comes in pretty pastels and there are knitted hat masks in bold stripes or ’70s floral crochet, a motif that also shows up on the boudoir-bound camis and slip dresses. The piled-on styling might be a bit much for many, but there are lots of fun pieces here we’d love to see on Canadian slopes and sidewalks. —Bernadette Morra, editor-in-chief
Move over Birkin. There’s a new Hermès must-have in town. And her name is Hermèsway. This clever little crossbody was easy to miss given it was clutched in the models’ hands as they strutted in their fringed suedes and dotted day dresses. Designed to keep essentials close at hand, the Hermèsway has a phone pocket, compartment for a lipstick or balm (Hermès, bien sur), front pockets that can fit two credit cards and a spot for an AirPods case (classic and Pro) with closure flap. Get on the waitlist now. —B.M.
The sexy ’60s nightclub Le Castel was the setting for a much more intimate than usual Chanel show, which usually features an army of models marching through the cavernous Grand Palais. Virginie Viard’s Fall 21 collection was big on statements though, including boots with down or faux shearling legs that unzipped to reveal sleeker booties beneath. It’s a genius idea for next winter when we’ll be out hitting the dance floor to make up for a year stuck inside. —B.M.
The longing for live performance seemed to grab Dries Van Noten, who corralled a crew of dancers and models on a stage in Antwerp. They swooned, roiled and danced in pink sequins, marabou vests and wide jackets with painterly swipes, all compellingly captured by Casper Sejersen. Afterward, Van Noten told Vogue.com that he was quite content to never put his clothes on a line-up of lithe teenage girls again. After seeing this video, we can see why. —B.M.
Tanya Taylor
Canada’s New York runway darling Tanya Taylor never disappoints with clothes that are both easy to comprehend…and wear. Perhaps not surprisingly, she used “staying home” as inspo for fall: not cooped-up climbing the walls angst, as could be the case, but comfort. There are roomy dresses in punchy florals, and slouchy coats in subtly-coloured checks. And Taylor has cleverly devised a denim frock that could be a good transition piece for heading back to the boardroom, since some of us might find ourselves in one sooner than we think. —B.M.
I love Nicholas Ghesquière and I love the Italian artisan house Fornasetti, so the collaboration between the two on delightful prints that popped up throughout the collection was a match made in heaven for me. Not to mention seeing more iterations of the outsized, sculptural shapes that Ghesquière does like no other. —Odessa Paloma Parker, fashion news director
I simply adore a surrealist gesture in fashion design, and the belting detail on several of the pieces in this collection — which possess a “gemstone” effect thanks to deft trompe l’oeil embellishment — absolutely blew my mind. Proof that creativity is still thriving through the pandemic, and that designers are banking on people still wanting to make a statement with their clothing! —O.P.P.
Thebe Magugu
This collection is a stunning, spirituality-inspired effort by the emerging South African designer which incorporated elegant silhouettes, eclectic print-work and unusual accents like straw that came together with refreshing effect. The artful layering and whimsical sophistication of this outfit is reason enough to make this name one to watch. —O.P.P.
Marine Serre
The Paris-based creative continues to explore the potential in crafting garments with sustainably-minded materials; according to a press release, this collection is half-composed “by regenerated styles” with the other half boasting “products realized by using recycled fibers.” The result is something for everyone come fall, from chill wardrobe basics to more eclectic patchwork pieces. —O.P.P.
Collina Strada
Once again, the brand’s designer Hillary Taymour experimented with not only the presentation of her seasonal offering — this time using delightful animations to morph models (like our March cover star, Jazzelle Zanaughtti) into an array of animals — but also how far she could push utilizing upcycled textiles in her designs. We see a variety of materials like t-shirts from a Ghanaian market, as well as repurposed items from her previous collections and garments taken from The RealReal’s consignment reject pile, used in the construction of these playful looks. —O.P.P.
Patou
Dressed up comfort came with lots of drama at Patou. The label’s bold, voluminous Fall 21 collection is surprisingly made from 70 percent organic or recycled materials, proving that extravagance doesn’t have to equate to excess. Gigantic arms and bubble hems offered versatility in pieces that can be styled more than one way and accommodate more inclusive sizing. —Eliza Grossman, fashion editor
Leave it to Acne to take cozy dressing to the next level. Being covered from head to toe (literally) in a plush set like the pink cardigan and leggings shown on the Fall/Winter 2021 runway will be a fashionable dream come true when temperatures drop well below zero once more. We’ll take styling tips straight from the catwalk and layer our dresses on top of a comfy base. —E.G.
Celebrating their 70-year anniversary with the founding year “1951” decorating several of this season’s pieces, Max Mara showed us classics with a spin. There’s nothing like a Max Mara camel coat but this season, I’m coveting a vest version with oversized pockets and plenty of space for my mask and sanitizer. A sophisticated mix of heritage checks and adorable lama prints made the collection the perfect balance of fashion and fun. —E.G.
Simone Rocha
Playful but a bit punk was what Simone Rocha served this season. The dreamy sheer layers with moto jackets and sweet embroidery made me swoon, not to mention the platforms with pearl-embellished laces. I’ll take a ticket to wherever the Simone Rocha girl is going. —E.G.
Danielle Frankel
Full disclosure, I wore a Danielle Frankel gown to my wedding and have been a faithful fan since, well, before I was even engaged. Call it love at first sight; Frankel’s attention to detail and craftsmanship is something to behold and it’s no surprise that she’s moving beyond the bridal market with her first RTW collection. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runner-up’s romantic collection included a collaboration with Manolo Blahnik making this season something straight out of Carrie Bradshaw’s dreams. —E.G.
Kim Jones’s debut collection for the house was elegant and effortless, with a neutral palette of grounding, earthy colours. Lux silk, satins, knits and signatures furs were reinterpreted in unexpected ways, such as upcycled pieces with touches of fringe. This standout two-piece knit top and pencil skirt set with fox fur carryall is perfect for a chic getaway (we can dream!). —George Antonopoulos, creative and fashion director
Prada’s Fall 21 collection “explores the space that exists between conventional polar opposites,” according to the house. The collection was all about ease and movement, showcasing suiting separates, geometric-printed long sleeve dresses under blazers, furry vests, platform shoes, cocoon coats and more signature Prada toppers.
Standouts included this yellow coat with powder blue platform boots. —G.A.
Schiaparelli
Surrealism and fantasy reigned supreme in Schiaparelli’s Fall 21 collection. Molded gold breast plates over tweed blazers, giant gilded ears, knuckle duster rings, sculptural gold brooches and headpieces styled with mega-platform clompers were amongst the many jaw-dropping elements to feast one’s eyes on. The Grace Jones references-meets-Elsa Schiaparelli surrealism worked seamlessly and delivered a much-needed dose of escapism. —G.A.
Who doesn’t love a fairy tale? Maria Grazia’s Chiuri’s Fall 21 Dior collection gave a nod to the house’s heritage with a tomboy-meets-Alice in Wonderland twist. Amid the classic silhouettes, menswear fabrics and timeless pieces, standouts included a laser-cut school girl dress in black leather and this dark, romantic floral menswear-inspired set. —G.A.
Palomo Spain
There are no rules with Palomo Spain. Fearlessness and a Gen Z anything-goes attitude make this house a go-to for genderless fashion lovers. The sequinned dress with bucket hat was giving me serious Cher-meets-Cailfornia Dreamin’ vibes. —G.A.
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