The Skin Care Application Mistakes You’re Probably Making

It’s the end of a long day, and you’re proud that you took the time to cleanse your face and apply your serums, elixirs and other skin care products. Ready to hop into bed, right? Not so fast there, cowboy. It turns out that you need to make sure you’ve timed each product’s application correctly, and that you give it all some time to soak in — before you soak your pillowcase with pricey products.

That’s true not just at nighttime, but throughout the day, too. Below, dermatologists offer guidance on the best times to apply products and how long to let them sink in before applying more.

It’s possible your morning and evening routines are too close together.

Many dermatologists suggest allowing enough time between morning and evening skin care regimens. “Ideally you’ll space them out to be about 12 hours apart,” said dermatologist Dr. Loretta Ciraldo. “My advice is not to wait until after a noontime workout to do your morning routine and then apply a nighttime regimen after dinner.”

How late is too late? “Getting your morning skin care done before noon is ideal, because it gives you enough time between routines,” said dermatologist Dr. Ruth Jobarteh-Williams.

Make sure you’re layering your products in the right order.

Many of us have more than one product to apply. But in which order should they be applied? Hee’s a good rule of thumb from Joie Tavernise, medical aesthetician and founder of JTAV Clinical Skincare: “The goal is to layer products from smallest molecular weight to largest, so the order should be cleanser, toner, serum, moisturizer and finally oil.”

The skin needs to be ready to receive whatever you’re sending its way, as well. Rachael Gallo, aesthetician and chief operating officer at Silver Mirror Facial Bar, suggested: “Always apply toner on damp skin, because it acts as a conductor to help serums lie on your skin for a slower, all-day penetration. Once your serums are applied over the toner, wait until the skin is dry before applying moisturizer as the last layer of protection.”

If you’re wondering how makeup fits into this schedule, aesthetician Tammy Fender had this advice: “I’m a big fan of waiting at least 10 minutes after putting on your moisturizer before applying sunscreen or makeup. Giving the skin a break is very soothing sometimes.”

Rule of thumb: Wait 60 to 90 seconds between applying each product.

Dr. Michelle Henry, a dermatologist and clinical instructor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College, explained why “too much, too soon” application methods could make your application less effective. “Waiting 60 to 90 seconds can allow the products to penetrate the surface layer and work their magic,” she said. “If you ‘clump’ three or four different products at the same time, the skin can’t absorb the various ingredients, leading to less-than-optimal results.”

You could just recite “one Mississippi” 60 times while you’re waiting in between applications, but Tavernise had a better idea. “Take the time to give yourself a little face massage while you wait,” she said. “Use all of your fingers to gently tap all of your face. It feels fantastic and will help products penetrate faster.”

Retinols have some different rules.

Some people experience irritation, flaking or dryness when using the vitamin A derivatives known as retinoids, especially prescription ones. For this reason, dermatologists often recommend the “sandwich method” when you’re applying them. This means you apply moisturizer, wait for it to soak in, apply the retinoid, and then add another layer of moisturizer.

The idea is that moisturizer applied first will be something of a barrier to combat any irritation from the retinol, and moisturizing afterward can seal in moisture. If you’re following the “thinnest to thickest” order of application, you’ll want to add lighter ingredients like toner and serum before creating that retinoid “sandwich.”

With retinol, you should also be conscious of using it in an appropriate cadence with other products you’re using, said dermatologist Dr. Rebecca Marcus. “When using a retinol at night, avoid applying in combination with other acids, as this can be too irritating,” she said. “Vitamin C is an acid, so it’s often recommended to apply these two ingredients at different times of the day. Vitamin C should be applied in the morning, as its antioxidant activity is helpful to combat free radicals from UV radiation and pollution. Retinol should be applied at night, since it’s broken down and inactivated by UV radiation.”

Is your pillowcase eating up all your expensive skin care?

“Applying any type of product and immediately jumping into bed can instantly transfer the product onto the pillowcase,” Henry said. “Along with depleting our skin of the expensive and rejuvenating ingredients, that could allow pillowcases to collect various skin care products. If you’ve experienced new breakouts in the morning, chances are your product-rich pillowcases are the culprits.”

How long is too long to wait? Michelle Wong, a chemist and science educator at Lab Muffin Beauty Science, suggested it can’t hurt to wait a while: “If you really want to make sure your product doesn’t go to waste, waiting an hour after application before going to bed is safest.”

“How quickly products are absorbed depends on your skin type,” Gallo said. “A drier complexion will absorb in minutes, and an oily complexion may take longer. We recommend washing your face right after dinner, beginning your self-care routine early, then relaxing with a good book and some light-emitting diode (LED) therapy.”

Silk pillowcases were suggested by a couple of the experts, including Jobarteh-Williams: “Silk and satin are gentle on the skin, and they don’t absorb as much moisture as cotton.” Marcus concurred, citing research that silk tends to absorb less face cream than other fabrics. Another nighttime tip from Marcus: “Try to sleep on your back. This is best practice to prevent wrinkles and creases in your skin on your face and chest.”