A woman posted on Facebook asking for referrals for a dermatologist who does the perfect Botox in Nairobi? ‘‘Not looking to be completely frozen,” she said. Another asked for “a safe place to do Botox and fillers and dermatologists to completely avoid.”
A few years ago, such posts would have elicited little reaction because few women did cosmetic procedures and those who did shied away from saying that they spend money to enhance their looks or stop effects of ageing. However, these online questions had over 30 tips.
In a growing influence of celebrity-obsessed culture and increasing disposable income, more Kenyans than ever are lining up in beauty clinics to do anti-ageing procedures such as Botox, eyelid injections, fillers, blood facials where platelet-rich plasma is injected in the face and laser hair removal.
“Kenyans are more open about body enhancements than before. Before it was very conservative. But generally, this is the trend around the world, people want to feel better about themselves so Kenyans are no different,” says Dr Radovan Boca, a consultant plastic, hand and re-constructive surgeon at Aga Khan University Hospital.
Dr Boca adds the younger generation is mainly influenced by social media pressures but then again cosmetic surgery it is nothing to be ashamed of.
“If you want to feel good, you want to feel good. There is nothing wrong with it,” he says.
Botox tops the list of face cosmetic procedures done in most Nairobi and Mombasa clinics, according to Dr Suhail Muravvej who runs Allure Laser Skin and Aesthetic Medicine Clinic. In a month, he sees more than 30 people who come in for face enhancement. In December, up to 90 people visited his clinic, most were from Nairobi, Tanzania, Rwanda and Europe, especially those on vacation.
“Women start doing Botox from when they are 25 years onwards,” said Dr Suhail.
Over the years, there has been a lot of change as to how women approach ageing. Nowadays, most of them do not want extensive radical procedures, which involves going under the knife because the recovery time is longer and complications are high.
Dr Nura Omar of Avane Cosmetic and Dermatology Clinic in Nyali says most of treatments sought after are minimally invasive or non-invasive. People want a quick return to work. They do not want to be seen that they had anything done.
“The skin turns over every three to four weeks. If there are procedures to expose the healthier skin there is nothing wrong with that,” she says.
So how is a perfect Botox done?
On its own, raw botulinum toxin that is used for Botox is poisonous and can result in total paralysis or death. However, Botox, which uses a highly diluted form of the toxin temporarily paralyses the muscles underneath wrinkles to smooth the skin.
“We use it to paralyse certain muscle groups that we do not want to act and show signs of ageing, which is wrinkles. So for example, when the muscle is used over time, as we age, it creates skin creases so if we paralyse those muscles to prevent creases,” says Dr Boca.
As everyone’s body is unique, cosmetic dermatologists have to determine the ideal procedure for each person.
“So ideally you would have a consultation with a specialist who understands ageing, who understands the skin and the muscle function because you need a doctor who knows which muscle does what on the face so he paralyses the correct one,” he says.
Botox injections do not offer a permanent youthful look so they need to be repeated and with more frequent use, they may become less effective.
“The functioning period of a toxin can be decreased with time. It usually lasts at least three months or longer,” says Dr Boca.
Dr Nura adds that her clients mostly come in for their Botox injections twice a year. A session ranges from Sh25,000 to Sh55,000 depending on the parts of the face that are to be frozen.
While most women who pay for anti-ageing procedures already have wrinkles, Botox only improves the appearance of the wrinkles but it does not stop the ageing.
“We cannot stop time. In younger individuals, Botox has a role. However, as we age, the skin and facial bones waste away, muscles weaken and gravity acts on the facial tissue. The position and the shape of the nose also changes,” says Dr Boca.
Also the wrinkles create folds or depressions which doctors can only correct with facial fillers to smooth the skin.
“Not everything can be fixed with Botox or non-surgical methods. Sometimes when the damage is excessive or women have excess tissue, the only way to deal with this is to surgically remove the tissue,” says Dr Boca.
According to the doctors, whereas many forms of anti-ageing procedures in the past focused on removing skin to improve appearance, augmentation is growing popular today. “We realise now (before we were removing a lot of things) that actually by adding we can also improve the skin. That is why facial fillers are becoming popular where we add the tissue that is wasting away or improve the skin condition by adding certain substances that nurture it,” says Dr Boca.
One of the biggest revolution in plastic surgery nowadays is the stem cell transfer. These stem cells have the potential to change the tissue and rejuvenate the tissue. Another revolution is ‘blood facials’.
This procedure improves the skin surface damaged by over-scrubbing. The platelet rich plasma (PRP) injection is a non-operative treatment that uses someone’s own blood. This procedure costs Sh60,000 to Sh80,000 per session.
“Your own blood is injected of the face which is good because it helps the skin resume its shape,” Dr Suhail says.
After a doctor has drawn blood, he spins it in a machine, the plasma is then separated and injected on the face. “The treatment relies on regenerative and healing properties of platelets. The blood has the ability to release small molecules that act as messengers to initiate the skin regeneration process. It improves the elasticity, tones and thickens the skin,” he said.
The ‘blood facial’ is good to treat dark circles, acne, pigmentation and scars especially for people who do not want to do Botox or fillers and prefer a more natural way of getting results.
There is also microneedling, which ranges from Sh24,000, where the skin is pricked with tiny needles to rejuvenate the skin, tighten it and improve its elasticity.
Dr Suhail says technology has made it easier to prick the skin. He said use of better machines promotes scar-less healing and natural collagen reproduction. Most women require three microneedling sessions.
Thread lifting can also be done to lift and rejuvenate sagging face skin on the face and other body parts.
“We elevate sagging brows, cheeks, jowls and other areas. A thread is inserted in to the skin and effect can be seen after between six to eight weeks,” he says.
As the procedures become popular, Dr Nura said people are saving up to have them done and some are paying in instalments.
“Some people pay for their procedures in instalments. The procedures are done annually or twice in a year so people save like they do for holidays,” she said.
Previously, people used to live with acne and scars that made the skin look like it is pitted and old. Young women with old-looking skin can now they can improve the texture,” she said.
In a world of botched procedures, she advises, pick a doctor who is registered by the Kenya Medical Practitioners and Dentist Board and use machines supplied by trusted firms.
As a cosmetic dermatologist, Dr Nura knows the importance of taking care of her skin daily.
“I have oily skin so I use Clear Skin System from BelleDerm. It has a facial cleanser, scrub, face moisturiser and a spot treatment,” she said.
She uses the facial cleanser twice a day. In the morning, she adds a sunblock.
“I only use the spot treatment if I get a pimple which I hardly get because of my consistent daily skin care routine. Scrubbing is done once a week,” says Dr Nura.
The common mistake that people do, she adds, is washing their faces with a scrub.
“Scrubbing is mechanical exfoliation which is important for skin rejuvenation. However daily scrubbing will irritate the skin and make it super dry and prone to acne,” she said.
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